28-Mar-2004 -- Coming from 24N 26E and the Gilf Kabīr out in the Great Sand Sea. Four Italians guided by Khalid Khalifa, an absolutely reliable guide based in Baḥariyya. Our Toyota had a differential broken, but he and his guys were able to fix it and let us go on. Many hours at the wheel, you've plenty of time to think how small are we in front of all this and it's the pace of your car that sets at that of your soul. No rush, no improvisation. You depend on yourself, and, even travelling with friends, somehow you are alone.

Now the way points to Farāfira oasis. Eventually a dark line crossing the horizon will tell us that the road is approaching, and some of us would like to U-turn and start way back. Bye-bye dunes, bye-bye freedom.