English Narrative
19-Apr-2009 -- 不知道笨笨是在去丽江之前就谋划好了,还是到了之后偶然发现的,N27°E100°这个点就在丽江附近。他在研究了google earth之后,还曾经给我画了一份简单的线路图,并正重的说:这个点,我们的竞争对手曾经试图找过。要知道,这话对我是完全没有刺激效果的,我又不是胡狼或老尼。。。。
笨笨露营那晚受凉,回到K2就发烧了,第二天早上,我问他好了没,他答:好了,咱们去找点吧。真是浪费了我那片退烧药,估计昨天跟他说:明天咱们去找点,一样能起退烧作用。
我倒是不介意花一天时间去无名的山里转转,而且我还很好奇笨笨问路的时候,到底要怎么跟别人解释他要去哪里。
到了丽江市,先去县医院对面坐小面班车去石鼓。问司机多少钱一个人,他说:15元。后来又有本地人问价,他只对着人家不出声音说:13元。过一会儿我再问他。他大声的说:13元。解放了自己。旁边坐了一个石鼓县人,告诉我们今天县上有集,我听了很高兴。
石鼓是一个旅游景点,因为金沙江在这里形成一个大拐弯,很多人来看。后来看书知道,传说诸葛亮曾经把这里当做渡口,并留下一青石碑碣,形似石鼓,因此得名。
我们计划从这里过江,进村,上山。但江边豪华的码头说:我们这里只漂流,不渡江。笨笨为了他的点,态度很好的请教人家:我们咋过江?胖胖的工作人员,手里抓着一把百元大钞,用眼睛瞟了他一眼,说:去大同村,那里有码头过江。
笨笨在路边给我买了一些草莓,然后我们找了一小面坐到大同村,下到江边,真有船,每人3元。
过了江,看到路边一些本地人坐在那里象是等车。继续问去利都怎么走。老人们都很热心的告诉我们:一会儿有出租车,可以过去。那就等吧。一个老奶奶问:去利都干什么?利都有亲威?笨笨都糊弄过去。又问:家是哪里。我们说北京,她马上问:有天安门的北京?
过去了几个小车,都不去利都,终于有个小面出现,我们跑过去,只说:利都,利都。开车的是个小男孩,呆呆的看着我们。旁边的老人家急了,跑过来喊:哩都哩都。原来当地人是这样叫的。
到了利都村就没车坐了。我们进村后要沿着去中梁子的路进山,然后在4公里的地方右拐进山沟。在村里看到一辆小面,司机都说去不了中梁子,“是毛路,不是油路”。而且每一个被我们问路的人都会很担心的说:中梁子很远的呢。
我们只好说:我们不到中梁子,一会儿就回来,进去看看就出来。
从进村就是大上坡路,太阳很大,走一会儿就得坐下来休息,找水喝。穿过村子后走了1公里左右,我们在树木里走上了一条去采石场的大路,但一过采石场,路就消失了。想着刚才没停过的上坡,我建议绕过这个山脊,走回左边去。结果我们两个人在满是灌木的山坡上尝试了1个多小时,手脚并用的爬上一座山,发现彻底没路了。灼热的太阳下,我蹲在树丛下寻找阴凉。笨笨又往前探了一段路,宣布我们必须下撤,返回采石场之前的路口。
笨笨看着我说:怎么娶了这么一个老婆,跟着瞎折腾。在不适当的时候开玩笑,是笨笨的一项绝活,我被晒得打蔫,完全没有理他的意愿。
回到路口,喝了很多山上引下来的水,又打满两个水瓶,继续向上。笨笨时不时打开GPS确定距离及方向,告诉我:下一个路口,右拐。这哪儿来的路口,带红绿灯吗?
在观察完地形之后,我们决定进右边的一条山沟了,这里植被更加茂盛,很多都是带刺的,需要仔细辨认。还没正式被扎,我就先在山坡上滑了个跟头,手腕搓伤一片。然后又被荨麻蛰到,胳膊上一会儿麻,一会痛。想起在安纳大环上看guru仁波切靠吃荨麻过活,问笨笨他是咋办到的。答:要不人家牛呢,你不行。
还是不断的上升,休息的时候,
apple:丽江都能被你玩成这样,你真行。
笨笨:男怕入错行。。。
apple:你入错了行,我嫁错了郎。
山沟里最大的问题是信号不好,只有2颗卫星,定不了位。然而,最后想要打败竞争对手,是要靠经纬度归零的照片,所以笨笨最后一段时间就举着GPS在山路上跑上跑下,找到最小值。我可不干这种事,找了一棵大树,坐下休息。
等笨笨宣布任务完成,我俩快速下山。想不快都不行,路陡,停不住的。
再过村子时,又碰到之前拍照的小男孩,居然还拿糖给笨笨吃,笨笨感动坏了,可惜我们包里只剩下半袋豆子,全给他。
天黑之前都是有渡船的,所以我们的时间也不多了。回到利都,半天都等不到小面回大同。去旁边的沙石厂打听,老板娘听完我两说的,指着旁边的一个小路口说:从这里下去,就有船过江了。
我们真傻。完全低估了摆渡业在这里的发达程度。
还没到江边,就远远看到一个船老大向我们抬了抬下巴,我们指指江对岸,大家心照不宣,只是没想到,只有我们两个,船也马上开了,而且是2元 /人。到了对岸,船老大要放下踏板,笨笨还跟人家客气:不用不用,我们跳下去就行了。老大说了:不行不行,还得上车呢,马上就到了。原来人家是着急过来接车的。
我们坐在路边,又开始在江这岸等车,说好一人起来一次去招手拦车。半个小时过去了,没人理我们。
最后还是本地的小面出租捡了我两,运气更好的是他们居然去丽江。
一整天我们两人只吃了一袋豆腐干,半袋豆子,腊排骨火锅,我们来了。。。。
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English Narrative
19-Apr-2009 --
This point is not far from the famous tourist city Lin Jiang, and we have plenty of time, it seems a reasonable choice for us. Even with slight fever, I decided to go.
First Transport:Taxi
Our first transport is a taxi which take us from Shu He Village to Li Jiang City
Second Transport: Local Bus
The bus stop is near the District Hospital. It cost us 13 RMB from Li Jiang City to Shi Gu village: a famous landscape spot which visitor can take photo for the river U turn.
We bought some strawberry. It's smaller than Beijing's strawberry, but taste much better.
Third Transport: Local taxi
The port here is just for tourist use, and transfer to the other bank is impossible. We have to take an local taxi to local port, it's very cheap: 5 RMB.
Fourth Transport: ferryboat
It seems today is a market day, lots of people go to this town. We catch the ferryboat, and it leaves within ten minutes, also very very cheap: 3 RMB, compares to the tourist boat's 100 RMB. We can enjoy the scene of river slowly.
Fifth Transport: local bus
Now we are in the other side of the river, but the problem is hard to explain where were are going. Local people don't understand my language. But they are very nice people, they help us stop every vehicle, and try to explain our requirement. Finally, a small van give us a hand.
Sixth Transport: foot
The small van leave us near a small village, about 5km from the point. From the map we know their are dirt road towards the CP, but no vehicle can be found in the village. We have a short rest and the began our trekking. It's very hot here, our water used up quickly. Luckily, we can find springs from mountain, villager make water channel nearby the road.
After 1-2 hour, we reached the "off road" point, this point is planned from map before our trip, It's about 2km from the CP.
The mountain is steep, after 1km, we found ourselves in a almost vertical rock. It's possible for climb up, but impossible for descend. I climbed another 20 meters up, and then give up.
We retrieved back to the "off road point", and began to find some other way. This time, we are lucky, an trail in an valley leads us to the CP, 100m, just satisfy the requirement. If the requirement is 50m, this point is not accessible, it must be somewhere on the cliff.
The trees in this forest is very tall, and the valley is very steep, it's hard to get good GPS signal. We have to walk forward and backward for more then 200m to find the correct signal.
Seventh Transport: ferryboat
We are very tired when we back to the road along the river. For more than 30 minutes, their is no vehicle pass by. A friendly villager told us their is a port in this village to, it's no necessary to wait bus or private car here. This time the ferryboat is much bigger than the morning one.
Eighth Transport: small bus
The road is much bigger than the road in other side, and lots of car runs on it. But it means, they will never stop to give you a hand. You have to wait for the bus. After a long time, we catch a small bus. And a great news is: it will go to Li Jiang city!!!! What we need to do, is just throw us to the seat and have a good rest.
It's a 12 hours trip to the CP, we have nothing to eat except some beans and DouFu
It's the hardest CP we have ever visited,far beyond our expect.
We are very happy, since we succeed at last.
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Coordinator's Note: This visit is classified incomplete because it does not meet the photo requirements of the project.